Saturday, August 28, 2010

Experiment in Hanging Tomato Planters

I've been seeing these hanging tomato planters for a number of years now, but have always pooh-poohed them as non-viable solutions for growing tomatoes. Last year I noted that a gardening neighbor had a few of them and they seemed to be producing, so I finally succumbed this year and bought a couple to try.

Actually, Mom and I together bought two each of two different manufacturer's styles. The ones we purchased at Orchard Supply Hardware were made of a woven plastic fabric attached to a wire frame at the top that hung from wires.
OSH Hanging Planter
The planters we bought online from Gardener's Supply (gardeners.com) had a heavy wire cage structure with a heavy fabric lining that zips open and closed with a heavy zipper. The heavy wire cage hangs from chains.
Gardeners Hanging Planter
Both types have an opening at the base where you plant your tomato so that, when the planter is hung, the tomato plant will grow downward... then try to reach up.
OSH Planter Base Gardeners Planter Base
The two different planter types present their own particular advantages and issues in terms of assembly, but we haven't developed a preference of one over the other.

One really big difference between the two planters is that the one from Gardener's comes with a reservoir and a few capillary strips. When you've assembled your fully-planted planter, you lay one of the strips on top of the soil, set the reservoir in on top of the strip, then fold the other end of the strip into the reservoir. The idea is that the combination of reservoir and capillary strip will provide constant moisture to the rootball. But the thing is that it provides such a constant level of moisture that it drips out the bottom continuously, albeit slowly. Side note: you can't put fertilizer in the reservoir or the capillary strip will develop algae and it will quit working.

Both planters instruct you to water daily. This turns out not to be strictly necessary, but you really need to keep an eye on the heat and wind if you don't plan to water daily. Otherwise you get up the next morning and find your plant hanging all limp.

Our Results
As I mentioned above, if you're not very careful about your watering schedule, you're going to end up with a limp plant. The problem I encountered there is that I had a few green Brandywine tomatoes coming on that were a little larger than golfballs. The next thing I know, they've got blossom end rot. The book says that this is caused by low calcium (not bloody likely given the amount of calcium in our soil and city water) or by "uneven watering." I think going dry counts as "uneven." So, while I had tomatoes that looked like this:
Ripening Brandywine Tomatoes
The other side looked like this:
Rotting Brandywine Tomatoes
Happily, after this catastrophe, I watered daily and have plenty of new green Brandywine tomatoes coming on and the Super Sweet 100 (cherry-type) tomatoes never suffered from drought (reservoir and capillary strips) and, therefore, didn't suffer from blossom end rot.

On the other hand, both plants seem a little anemic -- especially the Super Sweet 100 in the OSH planter with the constantly-dripping reservoir. And the fruits of the SS100 are uneven in that some of them act like they are trying to dehydrate on the vine even tho they're not yet ripe and there's plenty of water dripping from the base.

The Issues
For those who haven't raised tomatoes, here are a few rules of thumb about growing them in the ground:

  • Water them minimally once they are established. This forces them to put down deep roots where they can find mineral nutrients they need for blossoming and fruiting.
  • Fertilize them minimally or at least NOT with nitrogen. Nitrogen encourages lots of leaf growth and not roots, blossoms, and fruit.
  • Keep them up, off the ground, or soil microbes will take over and rot your fruit quickly. 
One of the problems of planting in pots and watering daily till water comes out the bottom is that you're flushing out the very nutrients the plant needs. So, you should probably plan on fertilizing these things with a mild, non-nitrogen containing fertilizer.

So, these hanging planters need you to water daily, offer no root room, and need to be carefully fertilized for optimum growth. The one bonus is that, because they are hanging, you don't have to worry about staking or tomato cages. It's also a lot easier to harvest what's there right at shoulder height.

Final Recommendation
Overall, I suppose they're nice for the novelty or if you really don't have any other place to grow tomatoes, but they're awfully fussy and the results aren't all that spectacular. For example, Mom has also planted tomatoes in 5-gallon and 15-gallon pots this year and those are doing better than her hanging tomatoes.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Orioles Leaving Early

Every year a small flock of Hooded Orioles arrive in the spring and stay for the summer before heading back south for the winter. The first birds to arrive in the spring are the breeding males who start arriving sometime between early March and mid-May. The females and juveniles arrive a few weeks later.

Hooded Oriole, Adult Male

After spending the summer jockeying for position at the oriole feeder and sucking down nectar the males start leaving, usually starting between mid-September and early October, with all birds gone by late October.


Hooded Oriole, Adult Female

Well, this year they split early. I haven't seen a breeding male in almost a week, since 13 August. And the female population also seems to be getting pretty thin. As of the middle of last week I was still seeing up to two adult males at a time in the yard and up to four adult females at a time. As of yesterday, no males and only one female at a time.

Granted, it sure feels like fall. Of course, it's felt like fall most of the summer. My garden is located in San Jose, CA. It's August. We're supposed to have most days in the 80s and many days in the 90s, sometimes climbing into the 100s. We haven't seen a day over 80 since mid-July. More and more mornings the cloud cover doesn't burn off till after 10 AM. Usually it's gone by 9.

So, the orioles have declared it to be the end of summer.

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Garden Bloggers Bloom Day 15 August 2010

Another month has flown past and it's again Bloom Day.  Here's what's blooming in my yard in San Jose today:

  • Western Virgin's Bower
  • Penstemon
  • Love-in-a-Mist
  • Canna Lilly
  • Western Columbine
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Zucchini
  • Cucumber
  • Basil
  • Nasturtium
  • Ivy Geranium
  • Impatiens
  • Solanum rattonii
  • Trailing Blue Lobelia
  • Tomato
  • Wax Beans
  • Hebe
  • Vining Plumbago
  • Creeping Plumbago
  • Rosy Buckwheat
  • Sunflowers
  • Purple Potato Plant
  • Sticky Monkeyflower
  • California Poppies
  • Roses